Un Baptême à la Campagne

Yesterday, my host family took me to the baptism of the father's cousin's daughter out in the French countryside. And to the after party! The baptism was about two hours away, and we stopped in the middle to pick up the father's parents. The countryside around Bordeaux is really pretty! It's filled with fields of grapes and corn and sunflowers. The grandparents' house is in the middle of corn and cow fields; it looks like something out of a storybook!

The actual baptism took place in an old stone church in a small town. Of course, the ceremony was in French, so I didn't really understand most of the details, especially with the echoing in the church. It was easy to recognize the main prayers, though, because they have the same cadence. It was interesting to hear them in French, even though I couldn't understand every word.

Afterward, we went to the celebration which was in a rented event room. At first, it was kind of awkward for me because I didn't know anyone besides my host family, and I didn't know how most people were related to them. Plus, there was loud music playing and a lot of people drinking and talking, so it was hard to understand everyone. But everyone was very nice, and asked me the standard where are you from/how long are you here/why are you learning French questions. I met the stepsister of the mother of the baptized baby, who took English in college, and we had a conversation where she spoke to me in English, and I responded in French! It was a little weird to alternate languages but interesting. She spoke very good English! Whoa-I'm-in-France Moment #1: about an hour into the party, I looked around the room, and realized everyone except like three people had left to go outside and smoke. Although, by the end, everyone decided to just ignore the "no smoking indoors" sign...

At the start, there were chips and drinks (quite a lot of drinks) set out as appetizers, and there was a big table of food for dinner across the room. The party started at maybe 7:30 or 8:00, and we didn't eat until after 10:00! I know French people eat late, but I was beginning to think the food was just for display! Luckily, my host family mother finally broke the ice, and I hustled to follow suit. Whoa-I'm-in-France Moment #2: it turned out something I thought was a big cake, was actually an elaborate pile of ham! That white stuff was fat, not frosting! Yikes!

For dessert, there was this cool cake that was made up of a little pastry balls drizzled with caramel. It looked kind of like the picture on the left but shorter (not my photo). Google tells me it is called a Croquembouche and is traditional at French weddings, baptisms, and first communions. The little pastries look kind of like large donut holes, so I was wary at first, but actually they're like pastry shells filled with a kind of chocolate or caramel cream. Délicieux! That cake made wish I'd skipped the dinner so I could just eat the entire cake.

Oh man, was there a lot of alcohol at this party! Gin, spiked punch, martinis, champagne, and, bien sûr, beaucoup, beaucoup de vin! I have to say, this party put a bit of a dent in the idea that French people don't drink to get drunk because there was quite a lot of drunken dancing and singing at this party. One guy was dancing with a plate on his head, and another guy was doing a sort-of handstand at one point. The drinking age in France is 18, but it's really pretty fluid (haha, pun!), especially if you're not in public. It's a little strange to have all these adults constantly offering me more alcohol and telling me to try this and that! "Non, merci" has become my signature catchphrase. I did try a little vin rosé (rosé? pink wine? Not sure what it's called in English); someone told me that if you don't like red or white wine, you'll probably like vin rosé. Still not my thing! However, I tried a couple sips of champagne, and I though that was better. Basically, I just stuck to water.

We didn't leave the party until 1:30 am, and there were still plenty of people dancing and smoking when we left. I was exhausted though! We spent the night at the grandparents' house, and left in the late morning. Their house was huge and really nice; they even had hammock seats hanging from the ceiling outside my room! I suppose you can guess how I kept myself occupied...

Anyways, even though I had trouble communicating, it was really fun to get to go. It was very interesting to see some French customs and to meet so many people, and everyone was so nice and welcoming. And that cake!!!